Loving God Like I Don’t Love Surfing

Sitting on my board in the warm, clear Pacific waters off the coast of Costa Rica, I couldn’t help but smile at the privilege of being where I am. I love the beach (here, “la playa”), and I love getting out in the water fighting against some waves. It’s especially nice when you get to look back toward land and see tropical mountains covered in lush green—right up to the coconut palms lining the beach. You’d be tempted to call it paradise.

On this day I had finally decided to use my entire day’s budgeted $10 to rent a surfboard. I really enjoyed surfing with friends in college, so I figured I couldn’t pass up the opportunity while I’m living near the beach of some of Costa Rica’s best surf, Dominical.

I chose the 8’ board because I know I’m pretty novice, and definitely out of shape, then walked out to the beach with a new American friend. Paddling out, duck-diving through turbulent waves and swimming against the strong rip tides, I was quickly reminded how exhausting surfing is!

But I persevered.

“I’ve only got the board for a day, right? And all that lap-swimming I’ve been doing is for such a time as this!”

Proving I can rent a surfboard in Costa Rica

Wave after wave I’d watch go past me or go into me… I wasn’t really riding any of them.

Contrary to common myth, surfing isn’t that much like snowboarding. There’s no lift to take you out to sea, and then your mountain either turns out to be a hill, or drops an avalanche on you to throw you swirling around in the salt water, trying to protect your head from getting hit by the board strapped to your leg.

I’d been out in the ocean more than two hours (!), my arms were completely fatigued, my bare abdomen raw, and my hopes of catching a wave pretty low.

Then there’s the social factor at play: you can feel all the other surfers are watching you and judging your skill. Pride reassures my mind with excuses: “I’m just out of shape.” “I’ve already been out here 2 hours.” “I haven’t surfed in more than two years.” “Can’t you tell I know which waves are good for me?” … but I’m still not riding any waves.

Then I had a profound thought: I don’t really love surfing.

Two-plus hours out in the ocean and I really hadn’t even been surfing. I’d been sitting on my board, watching waves, paddling around, enjoying the sun, sights and saltwater and watching other dudes surf. I was trying to surf, but was a frustrated failure.

Then the other shocking realization: I often love God like I love surfing. I don’t.

I like the challenge of the spiritual disciplines and the fulfillment they provide. I like the gifts God gives. I love the idea of grace, the commandment to love, and benefits of morality.

I even love that my God is powerful, righteous, compassionate, creative, loving, fearful, just, relational, and good.

But I often don’t love God Himself.

Dr. John Coe (see previous post) writes, “the soul must learn to love God just for Himself in such a manner that He... is the center of all things.”

Just as I would say I love surfing, even though I’ve spent numerous sessions without actually dropping in and riding a wave, I say I love God. Even when I’m not actually good at surfing, I appreciate the opportunities to experience beauty and to be in the ocean that surfing provides. Likewise, even when I don’t get a taste of God, I deceive myself into thinking I’m loving Him because I am surrounded by an encouraging Christian community or because the Bible spoke truth into my life.

Though the analogy is admittedly weak, the idea helps me see the difference between loving God and loving all the things that surround Him while missing the essence.

To bring the story a happy ending… yes, I did finally catch a wave. I spent over half an hour floating in the water next to my board, about done, and then the right wave happened to present itself. Suddenly, I was standing up on my board being propelled forward with all the hard-earned thrill that surfers dream of.

I was truly surfing.

I hope we all get the same experience of God. Keep pursuing Him. Keep reading the Bible and praying. Stay active in the local church and get discipled. It’s all worth it, because God is worth it. All the peripheral joys are great, but there’s nothing like actually experiencing God.
Happy surfing!

 I have set the LORD always before me;

because he is at my right hand, I shall not be shaken.

Therefore my heart is glad, and my whole being rejoices;

my flesh also dwells secure.

You make known to me the path of life;

in your presence there is fullness of joy;

at your right hand are pleasures forevermore. 

Psalm 16:8-9,11